Skip to main content

Salmon in Sorrel Sauce

In this blog I try to connect what's on the table with the natural world.  Food does begun as something shrink wrapped in plastic.  It can even be found in the wild or the wilds of one's backyard.  Our sorrel patch pictured lives in a very shady spot under a large rosemary bush.  Too much sun will burn the leaves, and too many snails might leave nothing for me.  The plants in this patch moved from our old house so they've provided us sorrel for the past 40+ years. Year after year no matter how much we and the snails eat.


Once upon a time when America's taste buds were newly awaking thanks to Julia Child, James Beard, and Jacques Pepin the kitchen gadget everyone bought was a Cuisinart.  Ok now that we got one what the heck do we do with it.  Cuisinart themselves responded to the need for knowledge with a very fine magazine called The Pleasures of Cooking.  A wonderful publication with no ads?  Unbelievable!


They introduced us to the budding stars of the day such as Paula Wolfert, Irene Kuo, Marcella Hazan, Barbara Tropp, and Giuliano Bugialli. They didn't force their machine into every recipe but let these new stars bring worlds of cooking beyond French into our kitchens.  Today, let's look at what Jacques Pepin did with Salmon in Vol. IV No. 4, as in the fourth issue of the fourth year, about 1982.  His article started with introductions of the various varieties of Pacific salmon, then used them for Poached Salmon with Cucumber Sauce, Paupiettes of Sole with Salmon Mouse, Gravlax a la Francaise, Salmon in Papillote, and Salmon in Sorrel Sauce.  I'm not trying to confuse you, the magazine cover pictures Paupiettes of Sole with Salmon Mouse not Salmon in Sorrel Sauce.  All great dishes I've made over and over especially the last three.  Being spring our sorrel patch is lush with new growth which the snails find very attractive.  So let's take their advice and eat some as well.  This recipe works wonders on leftover salmon filets buried in the freezer, exactly the situation I find myself in today.


So I take some liberties here,  first the magazine picture shows a lake of sorrel sauce so I'm using the full amount of sorrel for 6 portions and we're only 2,  but hey we'll cut the cream in half and circumstances make me use half the fish stock, one cup, also found in the freezer, my lucky day.  I don't have salmon roe or watercress but do have lots of chives for garnish.

So here rests everything we need except the cream who's still in the frig.  The wine and the stock have already met as a cocktail in the measuring cup.  The sorrel leaves have been stripped from their stems.  You can see the holes where snails had their dinner.  So we're set to go.  Pretty simple aye.  Hum,  maybe some steamed potatoes would be nice with all that cream.

Sorrel rolled and cut into a chiffonade

Here's the cooked sorrel pretty disgusting at first but better after adding the stock and cream. Below is my version of the dish.  Chives didn't add flair, but the sauce is rich and still balanced by the tartness of the sorrel.


Comments

Popular posts from this blog

St Jude and the Cold Tuna Caper

St Jude sitting at pier 9 Fisherman's Terminal The tuna fishing boat "St Jude" has had a stall at the Ballard Farmer's Market selling canned and frozen at sea tuna, both really high quality stuff.  On Thursday they sent out a notice to their email list letting folks know that they'd be selling off the boat at Fisherman's Terminal on Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Whole flash frozen albacore tuna for three bucks a pound.  Well I'm a sucker for a bargain no matter how much work might be involved.  Thus begins the cold tuna caper.  One phone call and bing I had someone willing to take half the haul as long as they didn't have to dirty their hands in the caper.  So "ya shure, ya betcha" off to Ballard we go, technically Magnolia, to meet up with St Jude.  There we do a grab and go and for less money than many sport fishermen spend on fuel I walk away with a fine catch of the day.   Another happy customer, ...

Halibut and Artichokes a la Barigoule

One of Provence's most iconic springtime dishes, artichokes à la barigoule, meets up with halibut and becomes a meal in itself.  Classic artichokes à la barigoule uses young artichokes braised in white wine and olive oil, with onions, carrots, and other aromatics. This one adds mushrooms, basil puree, and beans.  If video is your thing you can watch the great  Roger Vergé cook  artichokes à la barigoule, but after you skip the ads you still need to fast forward to about the 1:50 mark.  He sort of piddles around pealing the artichoke, for a more proficient job check this  Italian green grocer  out.  He does 4 in under 55 seconds and he still has all his fingers.  I've seen the dish paired with fish before, here I started with a recipe from The Balthazar Cookbook.  One of my favorites for bistro style cooking, especially fish.  Usually restaurant cookbooks are useless, dishes are pulled together from multiple elements all on ha...

Pasta con le Sarde

Strange times, we went from the fullest March calendar I can remember to being "Alone Together".  Something like fifteen concerts or club dates all cancelled and now they're dying in April as well.  At least we've had nice spring weather so we don't have cabin fever.  Along with no live music, no restaurants are open so lets cook the books.  Starting with Mary Taylor Simeti and Sicilian cuisine. In 1962 fresh out of college she landed in a small Sicilian town eventually married a Sicilian and raised a family, that story is in her book On Persephone's Island but here we dive into Pomp and Sustenance Twenty-Five Centuries of Sicilian Food . I bought my copy more than 25 years ago and many of the seafood related recipes appear on our table with some regularity.  I haven't checked to see if it's still in print.  As the title implies she covers more than recipes.  The two books together provide an enlightening view of Sicilian life and their table....